Move BT master socket - cost?
Hey,
We can arrange this for you. However it would be £144. (Not including VAT)
There are other engineers out there in the yellow pages that would be able to do this just as well , by the way.
We can arrange this for you. However it would be £144. (Not including VAT)
There are other engineers out there in the yellow pages that would be able to do this just as well , by the way.
Any electrician should be fine doing this.
Slight correction
Quote from: JoshuaC Any competent electrician should be fine doing this.
Haha,
@ Oldjim
No comment .
@ Oldjim
No comment .
It's only two wires, kind of hard to muck that up, from the dropwire it's White to "A" and Orange to "B", if from a junction box using regular 2-Pair CW1308 cable, it's White/Blue to "A" and Blue/White to "B"... 
And as for extension wiring, Blue/White to 2, White/Blue to 5, and if need be Orange/White to 3 (bell wire used for older BT and converted GPO telephones)...
Just remember that when the line is ringing, up to 90Volts AC can travel down the line and give you one heck of a belt if someone rings as you're holding the wires, AND there is a constant 50 Volts DC voltage on the line too which can give you a bit of a burn if you're not careful...
Tools needed, screwdrivers, a Krone tool or one of them single-use insertion tools often included in extension kits (for the IDC terminals), might be able to get away with an old credit/debit or similar card (never had much luck myself), and a hammer for the cable clips...
And as for extension wiring, Blue/White to 2, White/Blue to 5, and if need be Orange/White to 3 (bell wire used for older BT and converted GPO telephones)...
Just remember that when the line is ringing, up to 90Volts AC can travel down the line and give you one heck of a belt if someone rings as you're holding the wires, AND there is a constant 50 Volts DC voltage on the line too which can give you a bit of a burn if you're not careful...
Tools needed, screwdrivers, a Krone tool or one of them single-use insertion tools often included in extension kits (for the IDC terminals), might be able to get away with an old credit/debit or similar card (never had much luck myself), and a hammer for the cable clips...
Quote from: JoshuaC Any electrician should be fine doing this.
Absolute bull I'm afraid Joshua.
Most electricians haven't got a clue about the correct wiring standards needed for phone lines, never mind interference free broadband. There are too many that have even used Alarm cable.
Technically you are not allowed to touch anything prior to the Master socket, but twocvbloke has described exactly what is needed, but he didn't make it clear that you should use IDC connection boxes if any are needed (for reliable connections) such as the BT77A (widely available). However if any connections are external - ie the drop-wire to CW1308, ideally they should be jelly-crimped. The correct way is to use the BT66B box and one supplier supplies free jelly-crimps with it.
Any extensions should be wired from the master socket front-plate and not from any box prior to the master, otherwise if you ever get a fault you cannot isolate your extension wiring and if it turned out to be that which was causing the fault, that's when you will end up paying big time!.
In the last house, I rewired everything phoneline related, because whoever lived their previously either had two lines or didn't know what they were doing and had two NTE5 masters joined together on one line.
I took all the wiring out back to the BT77a where the dropwire entered the house, put in new 2-pair CW1308 from the 77a to the relocated master (was previously in the front bedroom) on the landing, then ran extensions from the master on the landing to a pair of LJU2/3A sockets in the positions where the two Masters were (latterly adding a cheap window-mount socket for an american Cortelco 2554 wallphone in the kitchen), took a couple of hours to neatly route all the cable but it worked 'til we left the house (and I removed my wiring & sockets excluding that between the 77a and Master)...
And a quick translation:
NTE5 - Network Termination Equipment no. 5, aka Master socket with removable faceplate.
BT77A - 6-way IDC junction box.
LJU2/3A - 67mm square Secondary socket.
The Openreach engineer we had in afterwards to set the line up (it was a stopped line initially but for some reason someone stole our pair) didn't bat an eyelid at the wiring I did, everything tested out great (well, after they "pulled an underground pair" from the cab that we're now back on) and we had 3.6Mbps ADSL, so long as you pay attention to how it's wired up initially, then there's little chance of messing up, just never admit you did anything behind the master socket...
I have a collection of telephones hooked up to a Panasonic telephone system (not connected to the phoneline), so am always fiddling with master sockets and the wiring behind them, and as it's on my own personal exchange, I have no need to be coy about it...
I took all the wiring out back to the BT77a where the dropwire entered the house, put in new 2-pair CW1308 from the 77a to the relocated master (was previously in the front bedroom) on the landing, then ran extensions from the master on the landing to a pair of LJU2/3A sockets in the positions where the two Masters were (latterly adding a cheap window-mount socket for an american Cortelco 2554 wallphone in the kitchen), took a couple of hours to neatly route all the cable but it worked 'til we left the house (and I removed my wiring & sockets excluding that between the 77a and Master)...
And a quick translation:
NTE5 - Network Termination Equipment no. 5, aka Master socket with removable faceplate.
BT77A - 6-way IDC junction box.
LJU2/3A - 67mm square Secondary socket.
The Openreach engineer we had in afterwards to set the line up (it was a stopped line initially but for some reason someone stole our pair) didn't bat an eyelid at the wiring I did, everything tested out great (well, after they "pulled an underground pair" from the cab that we're now back on) and we had 3.6Mbps ADSL, so long as you pay attention to how it's wired up initially, then there's little chance of messing up, just never admit you did anything behind the master socket...
I have a collection of telephones hooked up to a Panasonic telephone system (not connected to the phoneline), so am always fiddling with master sockets and the wiring behind them, and as it's on my own personal exchange, I have no need to be coy about it...
Used to have a home exchange connected up to the line donkey's years ago, a home built strowger job using a couple of uniselectors. Dial 9 for the outside line
Nice, I'd love to have some proper strowger selector hardware, thing is it's so collectable now it's pretty pricey, just a shame the likes of BT just scrapped all the old exchanges or sold for pennies to countries we're probably now enemies with, but I guess at the time digital was the thing and anything mechanical was worthless junk according to them... 
Still, people keep finding mechanical PABXes in buildings (like abandoned equipment that nobody bothered to remove when fitting newer electronic stuff), so there's hope yet...
Still, people keep finding mechanical PABXes in buildings (like abandoned equipment that nobody bothered to remove when fitting newer electronic stuff), so there's hope yet...